03 February 2012

新加坡大炮鱼生


新加坡湿水大炮还真能响,两名厨师面不改容声称於1964年灵机一触,研发了年初七人日的佳肴"捞鱼生",有意跟大马的餐饮业较劲谁是鼻祖。大马老一辈厨师追本溯源不敢掠美,确认捞鱼生源自广东,在四十年代早在我国逐步改良鱼生的配制法,而成为家喻户晓的年节吉利菜肴。

89岁的杜志昌医生声称於1930年八岁时吃过鱼生,当时新加坡那两位厨师还没出世。杜志昌在香港读医科。他说,1947年因鲩鱼有寄生虫,可能导致患肝蛭,一度遭香港政府禁吃。这说法显示捞鱼生从广东传入香港,也由华人祖辈带到南洋发扬光大。

其实,在3060年代,捞鱼生还不盛行,它因商业炒作才把所谓的发财鱼生、鸿运鱼生、七彩鱼生等名堂,发展成为华人新年应景菜色。新加坡厨业若硬把捞鱼生当作发源地,倒不如说,新加坡号称狮城是狮子的产地,是舞狮的先祖。

如要考究,不妨从一个"捞"字检视鱼生的历史文化渊源,即可顺藤摸瓜了解捞鱼生的出处并非新加坡。

捞,意是是从液体里面取东西;如捞取、打捞、大海捞针。捞在形容人事上较多负面意思,指的是 用不正当的手段取得东西;如捞一把、捞女、捞佬、捞仔、捞妹、捞偏门、捞本等等。

但捞字进入广州话方言系统就出现另一层意思,譬如说,捞饭、捞粉、乾捞面等,是"拌"的意思。

吃鱼生的前奏动作就是把各类的材料如瓜丝、鱼生和酱料由食客们在碟上搅拌均匀,喊喊好意头的话,这玩意是共同祝愿彼此在来年"捞"得风生水起,鸿运当头。而这个捞字的含意,只有广东话最传神,这也说明捞鱼生的发源地来自广东而在香港的饮食文化中扎根。在五六十年代,中国大陆的封闭和经济条件也不容许这种走资派的捞鱼生盛行於市。

多数大马华人都是在过去30多年因餐饮业大肆促销宣传下,才对捞鱼生动了情。最初在吉隆坡讲广东话居多的社群蔚成风气,逐渐扩展到其他州属。习惯上点这道菜时,都是用粤语发音: Yee San

因此,以闽南语和潮州话为主的新加坡,如果是捞鱼生的发明出处,按照方言的发声是:Liao Hu Seh。这与约定俗成,捞鱼生的叫法Lou Yee San利钝互见,一听分明。在上个世纪50年代,各籍贯华人使用华语还不十分普遍,华文捞鱼生只用以文字书写,与人对话普遍用Lou Yee San。即使是餐馆的街招也用Yee San,不是汉语拼音的Yu Sheng

华人祖辈南来,都怀缅着家乡的饮食,所以,各籍贯乡亲的饮食文化开拓了海南鸡饭、潮州粥和炒粿条、客家酿豆腐、槟城福建面、美罗鸭腿面、柔佛叻沙、麻坡乌达、新加坡咖哩鱼头和炒米粉等等,不分彼此,愿者可吃。

在马、新华人一家亲的关系下,各种美食都没有人强调是本身的独有饮食文化而执其牛耳。不过,饮食文化薄弱的新加坡若要强取此文化之根为己根,势必掀起论战而自取其辱,任意剽窃饮食文化经不起检验。

美食终究是以其配料和烹饪技巧的色香味,在食客中赢取口碑,获得赏识才是王道,不是抢先申办文化遗产或专利就以为可傲视群伦。鱼生早就於2009年,由当时的文化、艺术及文物部列为100种大马文化遗产美食。

新加坡餐饮业若有人想以鱼生称霸,还得问问广东,否则还是识趣点,靠边站吧。

光明日报专栏  是非如流  3-2-2012

22 comments:

山城大熊 said...

若干年后,芽菜鸡和白咖啡都是源自新加坡!

卖博士 字:孔明 said...

Satay, Asam Laksa, A&W, KFC, Mcdonald 通通都是新加坡发明的。。。

妈的,真是kiasu之国!

James said...

除了政治观点不一样, 这一篇我跟楼主有同感 : 新加坡, 想出名? 行开D 啦!

PoliBug | 波力拔克 said...

将别人的根当自己的根用,往往会有不能得心应根的情况出现,还则新加坡的朋友多加小心~ 以免种下祸根,得不偿失呀~

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